So here's a bit of a unusual post for this blog - a restaurant experience from Nara, Japan!
For my travels in Japan, I used many travel blogs to help me find some interesting things to do, especially
Paul's Travel Pics. His introduction of a reasonably priced option for trying some interesting tofu dishes hit the spot, so we decided to give it a shot!
We didn't make reservations as we didn't make concrete plans during our Nara daytrip but it turns out we had enough time to try to make it. The place is in old town Nara (Naramachi) and is extremely difficult to find - but with asking some kind local ladies for instructions and piecing together my terrible Japanese, we were able to make it.
We made it here slightly late - maybe around 1pm? - but luckily it was a weekday and were seated immediately without a reservation. (I would recommend you get a reservation though - the place could seat maybe 10 parties or so? and this meal is a two hour long affair.) I'm pretty sure international reviews have been highly beneficial and helpful towards their business, because more than half of the people in the small restaurant were speaking non-Japanese languages.
We opted for the smaller, fourteen course set. First three courses came out together: soymilk, boiled soybeans in soy sauce, and oboro tofu. You'll get right off the bat that this isn't like the stuff you get in supermarkets - the soymilk itself has a strong, fresh soy flavor.
Oboro tofu was this great bowl of soft, creamy tofu. It was recommeded that we try it in different ways: little bites plain, with salt, with soy sauce, or with their yuzu and kosho chili paste.
The Yudofu, which is tofu continuously boiled in soymilk - like soyception, if you will. Very soft and flavorful. When you get to the end, let the tofu keep boiling and "skinning" over, and it's kind of a poor-man's version of the tofu skin pot you would get with the larger set.
But while you still have tofu in there, cut off pieces with some soy milk and eat with the flavoring of choice. I personally liked a combo of salt and the yuzu kosho paste, since I am a sodium fiend.
Soy milk skin on shiso.
One the left is grilled wheat gluten topped with miso sauce - very tasty, and nice to get some firm bite in after a few rounds of soft tofu only. The two on the right I can't recall which is which, but one is a boiled bean curd, and one is a mashed tofu.
Deep fried tofu ball with fried, tempura veggies.
A piece of deep fried tofu with some stewed veggies - mild flavored.
A clear saltysoup, with some chunks of tofu thrown in because at this point, WHY NOT.
Along with some rice and pickles to signal the end of the meal.
For dessert: an icy, citrusy soymilk jelly with sweet bean paste. Very tasty and refreshing!
Overall, it was a terrific experience! I would consider myself a little more experienced in tofu consumption already than the general populace, but this was highly eye opening with the different amounts of way tofu could be presented, especially in a 14 course vegetarian all-soy based menu. It was a refreshingly light but stomach filling meal, and is great if you've been sampling the salty and deep fried street foods along the streets for a few days (guilty of that).
We spent two hours in this beautiful restaurant slowly sampling the different tofu dishes, and it was a highlight of the trip. It is also a tofu shop, so if convenient, you can purchase some delicious tofu to take with you.
The place is pretty difficult to find, so if using the map on the Tofu-an Kondou website doesn't help, just look for the monkey shrine called koshin-do (which is a cute stop in and of itself.)
And now, the oro-I-failed-at-life-so-you-can-win protip: when I asked the local retired ladies out for a stroll using my highly rehearsed and terrible Japanese where Koshin-Do was, they didn't know... but they all knew there was the one in town with monkeys. So if everyone you stopped looks confused and pitying just say or listen for the word "saru" (monkey), nod eagerly like the tourist you are, and bumble your way to it!
Tofu-an Kondou
Tofu-an Kondou TripAdvisor
Nara, Japan